I traveled in early October to La Rochelle on an easy three-hour train ride that took me from Paris to the medieval port town north of Bordeaux.
I’ve heard great things about the area, and an expat friend moved from Paris to the seaside town a couple years ago, so I had to go see for myself the hype was deserved.
A favorite holiday spot for the French, La Rochelle is said to have the third highest quality of life in France. The area is known for seafood and sunshine, and, indeed, it was nearly 20 degrees warmer there than it was in Paris the same weekend, and the sky was stunningly clear blue every day.
Nicknamed La Ville Blanche by foreigners for its dazzling sunshine, you’ll want good sunglasses and a brimmed hat most of the year.
The day-to-day life here is vibrant and active. Most days see folks of all ages enjoying the salty sea air—grocery shopping at the historic market, playing cards or board games in the park, taking a bike ride, hitting the beach, or simply enjoying a crisp glass of
local white wine next to the harbor.
Oysters are the first (and often second and third) item on every menu—and, yes, I do mean every single menu—and they are some of the best I’ve ever had. Mussels are served in even the humblest of cafés, and the special of the day is almost always the catch of
the day.
The town is completely accessible by foot or bike, and much of the historical center is pedestrianized. Bikes lanes and buses crisscross the city, and boats, buses, and trains take you to anyplace near or far, making a car unnecessary for most residents.
